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I hate using anything metal in guitar building, but spring loaded pins look likes good idea. Anybody use them, and if so, what size?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-spring-pins/=x7qbqg

Really? Most of my tools are metal.

I use 1/16 aluminum welding rod. I drill the holes through the fret slots at 1st and 12th about 1/8" deep in 4 spot. 2 in the 1st, 2 in the 12th. Leave the rod about 1/16" proud. The boards 'snick' nicely in place.

cocktails sticks work ... and are also good for locating the top when gluing (drill through where the binding goes at the tail block, and where the fretboard extension covers the headblock).
I think it was John Arnold who first came up with this excellent idea.

Like!

Brads..............use as a drill in fret slot and then as the locator ............pull after gluing.
TOM
HLA
EDN

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

I use stainless steel dowel pins from McMaster Carr for locating parts during glue ups. 1/16" for fret boards, 1/8" for general use, and 3/16" for bridge locating. A little paste wax helps them pull out easier. I also use round toothpicks and small brads. Just depends on the task.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Same as Tom -- coat with wax for easy removal.

Martin uses two metal 3/16" x 5/16" pins

However, I imagine some like me find this intriguing -- please clarify and explain your logic. -- Thanks

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

"I hate using anything metal in guitar building"

Fair enough. Not a well formed post. I meant using any metal materials in the construction of a guitar. Nails, etc. Where it applies to fastening. Most of my tools are indeed metal. There is metal in the tuning machines, strings, electronics, frets, and strap buttons.

Why do you make it easy to remove them?

I use that bridge press from LMI, it is self locating. But the idea of paste wax would greatly help in its removal. Thanks!

Mikw

So the fret wire can be installed in the second and 11th or 13th fret slots after the FB is glued to the neck.

Most truss rods are also metal, as are bolt on neck systems now used in some of the finest custom made guitars -- what's not clear, is the basis of your concern regarding metal used in the construction of a fine guitar.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

OK, thinking of getting the 18-8 style:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-dowel-pins/=x7yy58

3/16" x 5/16"

I might get some 1/16" x 3/8" for top and back location. I never thought of that before. Use 3/16" at neck and 1/16" at tail. Great ideas!

Mike

I like that! I've broken off thin metal pins in the slots often enough that the idea of using a "pin" that a saw can deal with is, to me, a nice idea.

OK, OK, paste wax (or parafin too, I'd guess) may be the right fix. I've always assumed, even in the face of some experience, that heat would do the trick to free up the pins, but it ain't always so.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu

Let's not worry about it. I clarified my question. Lets just call it preference. Just like my preference for dovetail neck joints. No metal required.

Mike, look to ebay for dowel pins. They are a quarter of the price.

Bob

Mike --- PM an address and I'll send you some of the Martin pins we have here in the shop.

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Ken Cierp

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/

I drilled small drills through two fret slots (~1/16"), and then turned the bits around and put the smooth shaft through for temporary alignment. The force of the C-clamps I used for gluing was enough to make the holes deform and the fingerboard was glued on out of alignment.

I just use the drill bits I use to drill the locating holes. When the glue dries, I heat them up with a soldering iron and pull 'em.

I used to do it like James does above but lately I've been using little blocks lightly glued to the excess of the neck blank. They seem to work very well and they come right off when I trim the neck blank.
I clamp the fingerboard in place using spring clamps and then locate the blocks up against the edges of the fingerboard making sure not to glue the blocks to the fingerboard, just the excess of the neck blank.

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

For the last 10 years I have been using a fretboard surrogate with truss rod slot locator pins and 1/8" drill guide bushings in the proper spot.

Position the surrogate, clamp and drill holes in the neck. Remove and clamp,the fretboard to the other side aligning the center lines and drill the fretboard. I use 1/8" dowels for pins but you could use metal dowel pins or tension pins too.

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I do it the same way as Jim, but I use little pieces from excess kerfed liners. Works great and is simple. Plus, if you ever have to remove the fretboard, you don't have locating pins to work around.

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ELEVATE || Next Level Lutherie
http://elevatelutherie.com
&
http://ensorguitars.com

I use tooth picks or pieces of tooth picks. After installing the board, I just slot them with a fret saw. No reason to remove them. Mine are perfect with a wire size #42 bit.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I think there has been a lot of good advice on this thread. Thank you! Ken, no need, I've ordered a bunch from McMaster, but thank you for the offer. I am definitely going to be incorporating locator pins in my builds.

I also use the bit that I drill the hole with. No need to heat them to get them out. Just tighten the cordless drill back onto the bit and it will back right out when it starts turning. I drill one at the location of one of the 12th fret markers, and another in a fret slot.

For the top, I use the same size bits. One at an angle into the tail block so that the binding will cover the hole, and another into the neck block so that the hole will hidden by the fret board extension. Again, they twist right out by tightening the cordless drill chuck down on the bit when the glue dries. No need for wax or heat.

I've been doing like Terry. 1/8" wood towels, but I think I'm going to order some plastic ones.

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Pat

All of these locating methods are useful and I use glued on blocks and pins in many of my glue-ups. At this time when doing fret boards my necks are already carved so I use the 1/16" pins in two of the fret slots. It is important to make sure your clamping arrangement does not put too much lateral stress on the board or you will end up with misalignment like Wbergman experienced.

Now that I've kind of standardized my truss rod arrangement I like the jig Terrance made and may build one like it to use with two wooden dowels.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"